On Things Learned From Sewing Shirtwaist Dresses

McCall's 3748

Last October I came to the decision that I wanted to attempt making a shirtwaist dress from a 1950’s pattern. While I sew a variety of different things, I had never sewn a dress that turned out and I was more than happy when this one did! And being so pleased with it, I immediately decided to begin sewing a second one! So without more ado, the following (and somewhat long, sorry) goes over what I learned.

Dress #1

♥ While probably a minor thing in the area of sewing knowledge, the use of interfacing was new to me due to the fact that until this past year I wasn’t really sewing anything that needed it. Never-the-less, I’m happy I now know its use and am looking forward to using it more often.   

♥ The big thing I learned was how to make bound button holes. When one has never done them before it merits a bit of research beyond the very simple picture on the pattern instructions. Upon finding a set of detailed instructions that I liked, I happily set about to make my button holes. Well, the first one turned out okay, but I thought it looked a bit large. Unfortunately, in my excitement I failed to acknowledge that the pattern called for 1/8” measurement, not a ¼” measurement as the instructions I was looking at called for. As a result, four of the five button holes on the shirtwaist ended up being slightly larger, and while I did have to stitch part of the button hole shut so the buttons do not come undone while I’m wearing it,  I can definitely say I know how to make a bound button hole now. 

The last button hole on the right is the correct size.

In addition to the bound ones and my having the tendency to want to learn the traditional way of doing things, I also learned how to hand-stitch button holes versus doing them on the machine for the facing.  

♥ I also learned a bit about belt making. At some point I bought a few vintage “cover your own buckle” kits at a thrift store for 10 cents each. Despite the fact that the word “Easily” is on the cardboard holder, there was nothing easy about covering the metal piece. The difficulty was primarily in getting the fabric to stay on the metal teeth (a very appropriate name) as it was stretched over the buckle. I’d get one part hooked in, only to have it unhook as I attempted to do another part, and then the fabric would fray to the point where it wasn’t covering the metal. Three attempts later (and with sore fingers), I finally got it to stay on and it looked reasonable. After that I attached the band and viola, finished belt!

Dress #2

♥ Dress #2 went a bit more smoothly in terms of button holes (all the right and same size!) and I avoided buckle covering troubles by making a sash instead. With this dress, my learning was more along the lines of how weight of fabric affects what you are sewing in terms of wearing it. Because of the stiffness of the fabric the skirt turned out to be more full, which was good, and the top part less relaxed, which due to the space for ease of movement, looks a bit funny if I’m standing still. It also led to difficulties in the gathering necessary for the skirt. Overall, though, I’m just as pleased with this dress as with the first. 

While I’ve only worn each dress once due to first a heat wave and now to it being so cold, I’ll be looking forward to wearing them more in the future and will definitely be putting to use the skills I gained while making them! ♥